The Daily Valet. - 9/7/24, Saturday

Weekend of September 7th
Cory Ohlendorf  
By Cory Ohlendorf, Valet. Editor
The latest in our 'Anatomy of a Classic' series? A canvas bag that wears like iron.

Weekend Reading

Anatomy of a Classic: The L.L.Bean Tote

 

A simple bag that's remained timeless and functional for 80 years

 

It’s the granddaddy of all other tote bags. The quintessential canvas bag. Rugged, relaxed and endlessly versatile. It's a daily carry-all, makes for a simple gym bag or easy travel bag and it's basically required for any American located along the Eastern seaboard. I'm, of course, talking about L.L.Bean's classic tote bag, which has remained virtually unchanged in the 80 years since it was first released.

Vintage bag, via Etsy

There are some subtle differences. When the brand first introduced its now-famous heavyweight tote bag in 1944, it wasn't a comfortable bag for those headed out on the boat. It was a solution for carrying ice at a time when the majority of American households didn't have refrigerators. The wide, water-resistant canvas bag was designed to transport ice easily from the car to one's icebox. It eventually became known as a household tool, able to schlep groceries and lug other items required for household chores. Early L.L.Bean catalogs marketed it as a “strong bag of builders that serves as a basket for wood, garden vegetables and fruits, etc.” Back then, it would've cost you around three dollars.

Twenty years later, the bag was relaunched in a trimmer form and with a slightly sunnier disposition—rebranded as the “Boat and Tote”. This was a pivotal time, since it's when L.L.Bean offered a selection of colored handles, along with various sizes of the bag. These were the foundational design elements that made the tote so iconic that little changes have been required for the next 50 years. Today, you can have it finished with an extra pocket on the outside and a secure zippered closure on the inside. There's also the option to have it embroidered with either your initials or any word up to 10 characters. But the bones of the bag remain the same.

It all starts with a sturdy and smooth, but no doubt, substantial 24 oz. cotton canvas that's also made in the USA. The brand uses the same #4 duck canvas used in factory conveyor belts due to its incredible strength. “It simply wears like iron,” the brand tells us. “No other canvas even comes close.” They also double-stitch the overlapped seams with heavy-duty T69 bonded nylon thread for extra durability. “We take strength seriously,” they say. “Our totes are designed with a reinforced canvas bottom and tested to hold up to 500 pounds.”

You'll likely never need to try and carry anything that heavy in your bag, but the point is that it's strong enough to take anything you throw in it. Literally. And it's why this is one of those beloved items that will last, year after year, and only continue to get better with age. An L.L.Bean tote hasn't been improved on in the last half century simply because it hasn't needed it. They've found a timeless design that not only looks good but is practical. You can (and should) use it everyday, for years on end. And considering the price mark-up you'll see on used bags selling on eBay and other vintage shops, you might even consider it an investment. It's certainly the best bag you can buy for less than fifty bucks.

Your Options Today

Vintage

Vintage dealer Brian Davis of Wooden Sleepers says the bags are basically “indestructible.” He sees Boat and Totes “from the 1970s and '80s still going strong today.”

1980s Boat and Tote,
$100 (or best offer) on eBay

 

The Classic

Don't call it basic. The bare bones starter tote comes in a dozen color choices, four different sizes and with the option for regular carrying handles or long shoulder straps.

Boat and Tote open-top, $34.95

 

The Update

Everything you love about the classic Boat and Tote—the same heavyweight canvas, reinforced handles and double-stitched seams—finished with a zippered top for added security.

Boat and Tote zip-top, $34.95

 

The Rugged Version

Crafted from a tough 1,200-denier polyester nylon shell, this tote has a thermoplastic interior coating that's both hard-wearing and water resistant to keep your gear dry.

Hunter's tote, $44.95

 

The Lightweight Version

Cut from a lightweight yet strong nylon fabric, this zip-top tote features medium-length reinforced handles, a double-layer bottom and an exterior pocket.

Everyday lightweight tote, $29.95

 

By the Numbers

350k

The number of totes stitched in Maine each year

150

The number of American manufacturing jobs created by the totes

12

The weeks of training required for each stitcher